Welsh Rabbit (Rarebit) British Style

Now, let's get the name thing out of the way at the start. Some suggest that the dish earned its rather peculiar title (rabbit is the correct form, but Rarebit doesn't pop up until some 60 years after the recipe itself first surfaces, although given both have been in use for over two centuries, I think you're entitled to go with either. I prefer rabbit, from the poverty of that nation). The point was that a Welshman couldn't afford even that cheapest of meats. Whatever the truth of it, I think this does the heavenly combination of crisp toast and molten cheese a disservice; done right, it's certainly no poor relation.

Indeed, according to a 16th-century joke, the Welsh were famous for their love of toasted cheese – St Peter was said to have got rid of a troublesome "company of Welchman" who were troubling the peace of heaven by going outside and shouting caws pobi – "that is as moche as to say 'Rosty'd ches!' Which thynge the Welchman herying ran out of heven a grete pace". And who wouldn't be tempted from eternal bliss by such a prospect? In fact, according to Jane Grigson, rarebits were once common throughout southern and western England, but, with the only Welsh sort still on the menu, it seems they really do know how to do it best north of the Bristol Channel.

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