Triple-Cooked Fries

I’ve been cooking—and eating—French fries since I was a baby and pretty much enjoying every bite. With that pedigree, I feel I can proclaim with 100 percent certainty that following this process makes a truly great fry! I urge you to try frying them in the beef or duck fat I suggest (see more about them in the Note at the end of the recipe). Don’t let the type of fat put you off—particularly because the fat pretty much makes the fry. I start the spuds in water, which preps them for the subsequent fryings. The double frying and the chilling create a light brown canvas of crevasses and fissures that, after two plunges into hot fat, produce irresistibly crunchy, crackly french fries.

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