Chicken Curry

By norsegal8

Curry can be made in so many different styles, from the brothy coconut milk versions that are popular in Thailand to the thick, saucy Indian curries. The Vietnamese version is very brothy and rich, but contains no coconut milk. There are four components to curry: fat, sugar, acidity and spice. The fat can come from coconut milk, animal fat or oil, the sweetness from onions, carrots or celery. The acidic element might be mango, tamarind, tomatoes or citrus, and the spices vary from region to region. The best curries balance the four components.
Curry leaves and galangal (an aromatic root used throughout Thailand, Vietnam and Indonesia) can be found at most well-stocked Asian grocery stores. When you see them, buy lots. Both will keep tightly sealed in plastic storage bags in the freezer for several months. If possible, salt the chicken the night before cooking so that the meat is seasoned to the bone.

Ingredients

• 3 pounds skin-on, bone-in whole chicken legs (separated into drumsticks and thighs) trimmed of excess fat
• 1 teaspoon kosher salt
• 1/4 cup + 3 tablespoons canola oil
• 3 lemongrass stalks
• 2 yellow onions, diced (about 4 cups)
• 2 teaspoons shrimp paste*
• 2 teaspoons minced garlic
• 1 teaspoon ground coriander
• 1 teaspoon ground turmeric
• 1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper
• 1/4 teaspoon black peppper
• 3 tablespoons rice wine
• 1/2 diced tomato
• 2 Thai chiles, stemmed and halved crosswise on the diagonal
• 6 fresh curry leaves**
• 2 bay leaves
• 2 by 1-inch piece fresh galangal*** peeled and sliced
• 3 quarts chicken stock
• 3 carrots, peeled and cut crosswise into 1-inch pieces
• 2 medium Yukon gold potatoes, diced

Details

Servings 6

Preparation

Step 1

1. Put the chicken legs in a single layer on a rimmed baking sheet and season them on both sides with the salt. Cover loosely with plastic wrap and refrigerate overnight. The following day, bring the chicken to room temperature before cooking.

2. In a Dutch oven or other heavy-bottomed pot, heat 3 tablespoons of the oil over medium-high heat. When the oil is hot, working in batches, add the chicken legs and cook, turning once, for about 8 minutes, until browned on both sides. As each batch is ready, transfer it to a clean rimmed baking sheet.

3. Cut off the pale, fleshy part (the bottom 4 inches) of each lemongrass stalk and discard the dry tops. Crush the lemongrass with the side of a cleaver or a kitchen mallet, and set aside.

4. In a large clay pot, heat the remaining 1/4 cup oil over medium heat. Add the onions and cook, stirring occasionally, for about 25 minutes , until they are very soft and deep golden brown. If the onions begin to get too brown, lower the heat. Add the shrimp paste and garlic and cook for 1 minute. Stir in the coriander, turmeric, cayenne and black pepper and cook for 1 minute longer.

5. Stir in the wine and tomato and cook for 4 to 5 minutes, until the liquid has evaporated and the onion mixture looks dry. Add the chiles, curry and bay leaves, lemongrass and galangal. Pour in the stock and bring the liquid to a boil. Lower the heat so the liquid is at a simmer, and cook, uncovered for 1 1/2 hours, until the liquid is reduced by half.

6. Pour the liquid through a fine-mesh sieve placed over a bowl. Remove the curry and bay leaves and the lemongrass stalks from the sieve and discard. Using a rubber spatula, press as much of the remaining onion mixture as possible through the sieve into the liquid.

7. Return the strained braising liquid to the clay pot, place over medium heat, and bring to a boil. Add the browned chicken, carrot and potato. Lower the heat to a gentle simmer, and cook, uncovered, for 25 minutes, until the chicken is opaque throughout and the carrots and potatoes are tender.

8. Remove from the heat and serve directly from the clay pot, accompanied by steamed rice or cooked rice vermicelli.

*SHRIMP PASTE Sold in jars, this pinkish gray condiment is made from fermented salted shrimp. It has a pungent, salty flavor and is frequently mixed with lime juice and sugar, which tempers its strong taste.

**CURRY LEAVES Widely used in the cooking of Southern India, these highly fragrant leaves resemble bay leaves, though longer and thinner, and have an unmistakeable aroma of curry. They can be found in Asian and Indian grocery stores and can be frozen in a tightly sealed container for several months. Avoid buying dried curry leaves, which lack the aroma and flavor of fresh.

***GALANGAL Also called Siamese ginger, this rhizome is related to ginger, but has a spicier, almost bitter flavor. It is frequently used in Thai cooking and less commonly in Vietnamese recipes. Look for chunky knobs that are pale yellow or ivory marked by darker concentric rings. Avoid dried galangal, which lacks flavor. Fresh galangal can be frozen in a resealable plastic bag for up to one month.