Salty caramel croquembouche with ricotta cream

By ctozzi

This modern version of the French classic features ricotta cream filling for the puffs and a sea salt caramel coating. Serve this festive dessert the day it's assembled.

Ingredients

• FOR THE PASTRY CREAM
• 1 1/2 cups whole-milk ricotta
• 3 cups whole milk
• 3 large eggs
• 3 large egg yolks
• Table salt
• 1 cup granulated sugar
• 6 Tbs. cornstarch
• 1 Tbs. pure vanilla extract
• 2 1/4 oz. (4 1/2 Tbs.) cold unsalted butter, cut into pieces
• FOR THE PATE 'A CHOUX PUFFS
• 7 1/2 oz. (15 Tbs.) unsalted butter
• 2 1/2 Tbs. granulated sugar
• Kosher salt
• 11 1/4 oz. (2 1/2 cups) unbleached all-purpose flour, sifted
• 10 large eggs
• FOR ASSEMBLY
• 2 1/2 cups granulated sugar
• 1 Tbs. sea salt
• 1 4x12-inch (approximately) foam cone, covered in foil (ideally gold)
• Toothpicks

Details

Servings 70

Preparation

Step 1

MAKE THE PASTRY CREAM: Drain the ricotta in a fine sieve set over a small bowl in the refrigerator for at least 4 hours and up to 1 day.

Warm the milk in a heavy-duty 3-quart saucepan over medium heat until steaming, 3 to 4 minutes.

Meanwhile, whisk the eggs, egg yolks, and 1/2 tsp. salt in a medium bowl.

Gradually whisk in the sugar. Whisk in the cornstarch and vanilla until smooth.

Slowly whisk a little of the hot milk into the egg mixture to warm it, then whisk the mixture into the pot of milk.

Whisk in the butter and cook over medium heat, whisking constantly, until the pastry cream is very thick and regis­ters 165°F on an instant-read thermometer, 2 to 3 minutes.

Strain through a fine sieve into a medium bowl.

Cover with plastic wrap, pressing it onto the surface of the cream, and refrigerate for at least 2 hours.

Puree the ricotta in a food processor until very smooth, about 8 minutes.

Stir it into the pastry cream and refrigerate until ready to use or for up to 1 day.

MAKE AND Fill THE PATE A CHOUX PUFFS: Position racks in the upper and lower thirds of the oven and heat the oven to 425°F.

Bring 2 1/2 cups of water and the butter, sugar, and 1/4 tsp. salt to a boil in a 4-quart sauce­pan over medium-Iow heat.

When the butter melts, remove from the heat and add the flour. Set the pan over low heat and stir with a wooden spoon until the mixture forms a smooth ball that pulls away from the sides of the pan, about 2 minutes.

Transfer the mixture to a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment and beat on low speed until cool to the touch.

On medium-Iow speed, beat in the eggs one by one, mixing until each is fully incorporated before adding the next.

Let the dough cool for about 10 minutes.

Transfer half of the dough to a pastry bag fitted with a 1/2-inch plain tip (Ateco #806).

Onto 2 parchment-lined rimmed baking sheets, pipe small, 1 1/2-inch-high mounds (like chocolate kisses) at 2-inch intervals. Smooth the surface of the mounds with a wet finger.

Lower the oven temperature to 375°F and bake, rotating the sheets from top to bottom after 10 minutes, until the puffs are evenly golden-brown, 20 to 25 minutes total.

Turn off the oven and remove the puffs from the oven. Prick the side of each puff with a paring knife to release the steam. Return the puffs to the turned-off oven with the door ajar to dry them for 3 to 5 minutes. Remove the puffs from the baking sheets and transfer to cool.

Repeat with the remaining dough on freshly lined baking sheets. (The puffs are best used the same day, but they can be made a day ahead and stored in an airtight container at room temperature.)

ASSEMBLE THE CROQUEMBOUCH: Sort the puffs according to size: small, medium, and large.

Transfer about half of the pastry cream to a piping bag fitted with a 1/4-inch plain tip (Ateco # 802 or #10). Poke the tip into the bottom of each puff and fill with the pastry cream, being careful not to overfill. Refill the pastry bag as needed.

Have a large bowl of ice water ready. Put the sugar and salt in a 3-quart heavy­pan. Add 2/3 cup water and swirl to moisten the sugar. Cover and boil over high heat until starting to turn golden around the edges, 5 to7 minutes.

Remove the lid and cook swirling occasionally, until the caramel is Iight golden, 1 to 2 minutes more. Immediately put the bottom of the pot in the ice water to stop the cooking. Remove the pot from the water and put it on a heatproof surface.

You can assemble the croquembouche up to 2 hours ahead provided it's not too humid; a moist environment will cause the caramel to soften. Don't refrigerate the croquembouche. Serve any extra puffs on the side.

Watch the step-by-step con­struction of a croquembouc at FineCooking.com/extras.