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Chocolate Italian Meringue

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This fantastic recipe is a 'lagniappe' (a Louisiana word defined as "an extra gift"). It is neither a cake nor a component of a cake but a romantically named cookie, crunchy on the outside, chocolaty-chewy on the inside. The recipe was a gift to me from a charming Swiss baker, Arthur Oberholzer. He enticed me by telling me that the chocolate Italian meringue is called 'neve nero' in Italy. This mixture is used to make a famous Swiss cookie known as the Schloggi S (chocolate S), because it is piped in that shape. He said it is so tricky and delicate "no one ever succeeds on the first try." The challenge was on. One cookie from my first batch was promptly mailed to Arthur Oberholzer.

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Ingredients

  • 1 1/4 cups +3 tablespoons sugar
  • 1/3 cup water
  • 4 large egg whites
  • 1/2 teaspoon cream of tartar
  • 2 ounces unsweetened chocolate, melted and slightly cooled

Details

Servings 18

Preparation

Step 1

1. Have ready a 2-cup heatproof glass measuring cup near the range.

2. In a small heavy saucepan (preferably with a nonstick lining) stir together 1 1/4 cups sugar and the water. Heat, stirring constantly, until the sugar dissolves and the syrup of bubbling. Stop stirring and turn down the heat to the lowest setting. (If using an electric range, remove from the heat.)

3. In a mixing bowl beat the egg whites until foamy, add the cream of tartar, and beat until soft peaks form when the beater is raised. Gradually beat in the remaining 3 tablespoons sugar until stiff peaks form when the beater is raised slowly.

4. Increase the heat and boil the syrup until a thermometer registers 248°F to 250°F (firm-ball stage). Immediately pour the syrup into the glass measuring cup to stop the cooking.

5. Pour a small amount of syrup over the whites with the mixer off. Immediately beat at high speed for 5 seconds. Stop the mixer and add a larger amount of syrup. Beat at high speed for 5 seconds. Continue with the remaining syrup. With the last addition use a rubber scraper to remove all of the syrup from the glass measuring cup. Beat for 1 minute.

6. NOW COMES THE CRITICAL MOMENT: Stop beating, disengage the beater and add the melted chocolate. Holding the beater with your hand, immediately beat for a few seconds, only until incorporated. Transfer it at once to a pastry bag and pipe immediatley white still hot. If overbeaten, the mixture will be soft and the ridges will not show.

7. Use a small spot of meringue at each corner of the pan to attach the liner. Pipe large, high S shapes, allowing the mixture to fall from the bag. Avoid flattening it by having the pastry tip too low. From end to end each S should measure 3 1/2 inches. They will expand 1/2 inch when baked, so leave at least 1 1/2 inches between cookies. Allow the cookies to dry for 2 hours or until set. (When your fingertip touches the cookies, the meringue stays intact.)

8. Preheat the oven to 350°F. Place the cookies in the preheated oven for 10 minutes. Lower the heat to 200°F and bake without opening the oven door just until they can be easily removed (using your fingers) from the baking sheet. This will take 20 to 30 minutes. DO NOT OVERBAKE. The cookies should be wet inside as they continue to dry on removal from the oven and should be soft and chewy on the inside even after cooling.

9. Cool on a rack. Store in airtight containers.

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