Pumpkin Pie

By Hklbrries

It's perhaps the most versatile food on the planet.


Although unfairly maligned over the years, that white stuff known as tofu can actually be the secret ingredient in just about any dish – from savory entrees such as lasagna and enchiladas to rich smoothies, velvety sauces, and luscious desserts that include pumpkin pie, cheesecake and chocolate pudding.


For those who have never tried tofu, here's a piece of advice: Don't be afraid.


It's easy to use. It's good for you. And, despite its unusual texture and appearance, it's downright yummy.


Just ask Phil Spiegel, better known in these parts as "Tofu Phil." As the owner and founder of Small Planet Tofu, located just 40 miles north of Spokane in Pend Oreille County, Tofu Phil's mission is to educate the public about the virtues of tofu – a food that was first used in China around 200 B.C.


"Tofu is one of the original artisan foods," explained Tofu Phil, who's vegetarian. "It's been around for centuries and has long been part of the culture."


Recognized as the "microbrew of tofu," Small Planet Tofu is made from certified organic soybeans grown by a co-op of farmers in Thayer, Kan. More than a decade after starting Small Planet, Tofu Phil continues to keep his business on a small scale, using open kettles and other labor-intensive methods, as well as handcrafting the tofu in small batches of 50 to 60 pounds at a time.



"Most tofu out there is mass produced, but it was never intended to be that way," said Tofu Phil. "Tofu is also meant to taste good. … I'm just trying to help people learn more and reduce their anxiety about tofu."


As a result of his outreach work in recent years, Tofu Phil's product is consumed not only by vegans and vegetarians, but also by carnivores and omnivores of all ages – including schoolchildren, a population whose palates aren't always easy to please.




For the past two years, the roughly 700 elementary, middle- and high-school students in the Newport (Wash.) School District who eat lunch in the cafeteria have been eating a vegetarian lasagna made with Small Planet Tofu at least once or twice a month.


"Students love it," said Judy Henshaw, the district's food service director for the past nine years. "They've learned that tofu isn't scary at all."


In recent years, Henshaw has made an effort to incorporate fresh, local produce as well as healthy and low-fat foods to the nutrient-standard school menu. Tofu is a good source of protein for students, she said.


Each serving of vegetarian lasagna – which is baked in 18-by-26-inch pans that feed about 40 kids – has approximately 269 calories, 9 grams of fat, 23 grams of carbohydrates and 22 grams of protein.


In the future, Henshaw hopes to serve more menu items made with tofu including a tofu pot pie, tofu fajitas, tofu tater tot casserole and a breakfast wrap with crumbled tofu.


Small Planet Tofu also is the favorite of many local chefs and restaurants including Luna, Thai Bamboo, Moxie and Neato Burrito, which serves a popular tofu burrito.


"We use tofu for everything," said Chef Tony Brown of Mizuna, another local restaurant that serves Small Planet Tofu. "You can pretty much make tofu taste like anything. You can marinate tofu, sauté it, grill it. It's a sponge, and it will take on any flavor."


Generally, tofu is available in two types: silken, which is used for smoothies, desserts, salad dressings and sauces; and firm or regular, which has varying consistencies from soft to extra firm and can be grilled, baked, fried or used as a substitute for meat in stir-fries, casseroles and other dishes.


At Mizuna, Brown uses silken tofu for vegan aiolis as well as their desserts. He also grills the firm variety that's infused with ginger and serves it jasmine rice, bell peppers, scallions and other vegetables for lunch. For dinner, Mizuna's menu includes grilled tofu with house-made green curry as well as garlic-seared tofu served with a warm basil pesto potato salad, tomatoes, seasonal vegetables and basil cream. Brown also uses grilled ginger tofu in a salad that includes baby spinach, daikon radish sprouts, cabbage, carrots, cucumbers, and cilantro with miso-sesame vinaigrette.


"You don't have to be vegetarian to like tofu," stressed Tofu Phil. "It's been the Rodney Dangerfield of food – it gets no respect. It's time to give tofu the recognition it has long deserved."


Tofu Phil became a bean curd convert in the 1970s, after reading William Shurtleff's "Book of Tofu." For several years, Tofu Phil spent his days working as an engineer and his evenings crafting tofu at home. In 1994, making tofu became his full-time job.


Although much of his work now entails food demos and sharing tofu at area farmers' markets and other venues, he remains involved in Small Planet's tofu production. He also has trained apprentices including his lead tofu production specialist, Drisan Turner, another tofu artist who first came to Small Planet as a 17-year-old in 1995.


Education, according to Tofu Phil, is 85 percent of the tofu business. When he first got started, he had to explain what tofu is and all its health benefits. Now, most people have heard of tofu, but they still don't know what to do with it, he said.


During demonstrations at area farmers' markets, he offers samples of his original tofu as well as the four kinds infused with flavor – garlic and herb, spicy, sundried tomato and curry. He sometimes serves pumpkin pie and other desserts made with tofu as well as Small Planet dips and spreads to demonstrate the versatility of bean curd.


He and other bean curd lovers also tout the health benefits of tofu: It's high in protein, calcium and B vitamins and low in calories, saturated fat and sodium. It's free of cholesterol and rich in minerals.


It's also an affordable alternative to meat, said Tofu Phil.


Making your own tofu can be a messy and time-consuming venture, Tofu Phil acknowledged. But it's his passion, he said, as well as his calling.


"Tofu has been judged and condemned and it's been one of the most despised foods in the United States," he said. "I'm on a mission to educate people about good tofu and to give tofu the credibility it has long deserved."

Ingredients

• 3 cups mashed packed pumpkin or winter squash
• 1 1/2 pounds firm tofu, mashed
• 1 cup maple syrup
• 1/2 teaspoon ground nutmeg
• 1/2 teaspoon ground ginger
• 1/4 teaspoon ground allspice
• 1/4 teaspoon ground cloves
• 1 1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
• 3/4 teaspoon salt
• 2 to 3 tablespoons water (optional)
• 2 unbaked 9 inch pie crusts (preferably a nut pie pastry crust)

Details

Servings 2

Preparation

Step 1

Combine pumpkin or squash, tofu, maple syrup, spices and salt in a food processor or blender (use water only if mixture seems very thick). Pour filling into pie crusts and smooth out. Bake in preheated oven at 375 degrees for 30 minutes. Set on rack to cool and firm up for at least two hours before serving.