Eggs Pipérade

By LRay

Cooks Illustrated, January/February 2017, page 12.

In our version of this Basque classic, we took a two-pronged approach to prevent the vegetables from turning the eggs stringy and wet. We precooked the pepper-tomato mixture to evaporate some of the excess moisture, soften the peppers, and meld the flavors, and we also kept the pipérade and the eggs separate until they hit the plate. We used a mix of red bell peppers and pale green Cubanelle peppers, which offered sweetness and delicate fresh flavor, respectively. By using peeled canned tomatoes (drained of most of their liquid), we avoided chewy tomato skins. A combination of high and then low heat, lots of fat (here we used olive oil instead of dairy to boost savory flavor), and a gentle folding technique produced rich, tender eggs.

Ingredients

• 6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
• 1 large onion, cut into 1/2-inch pieces
• 1 large bay leaf
• Salt and pepper
• 4 garlic cloves, minced
• 2 teaspoons paprika
• 1 teaspoon minced fresh thyme
• 3/4 teaspoon red pepper flakes
• 3 red bell peppers, stemmed, seeded, and cut into 3/8-inch strips
• 3 Cubanelle peppers, stemmed, seeded, and cut into 3/8-inch strips
• 1 (14-ounce) can whole peeled tomatoes drained with 1/4 cup juice reserved, chopped coarse
• 3 tablespoons minced fresh parsley
• 2 teaspoons sherry vinegar
• 8 large eggs

Details

Adapted from cooksillustrated.com

Preparation

Step 1

We like Cubanelle peppers here, but you can substitute green bell peppers, if desired. To serve the dish the traditional way, fold the eggs gently into the pepper mixture.

1. Heat 3 tablespoons oil in 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium heat until shimmering. Add onion, bay leaf, and 1/2 teaspoon salt and cook, stirring occasionally, until onion is softened and just starting to brown, about 6 minutes. Add garlic, paprika, thyme, and pepper flakes and cook, stirring occasionally, until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add bell peppers, Cubanelle peppers, and 1 teaspoon salt; cover and cook, stirring occasionally, until peppers begin to soften, about 10 minutes.

2. Uncover and stir in tomatoes and reserved juice. Reduce heat to medium-low and cook, uncovered, stirring occasionally, until mixture appears dry and peppers are tender but not mushy, 10 to 12 minutes. Discard bay leaf; stir in 2 tablespoons parsley and vinegar. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Transfer pepper mixture to serving dish and wipe skillet clean with paper towels.

3. While pepper mixture cooks, beat eggs, 2 tablespoons oil, 1/2 teaspoon salt, and 1/4 teaspoon pepper with fork until eggs are thoroughly combined and color is pure yellow.

4. Return now-empty skillet to medium-high heat, add remaining 1 tablespoon oil, and heat until shimmering. Add egg mixture and, using rubber spatula, constantly and firmly scrape along bottom and sides of skillet until eggs begin to clump and spatula just leaves trail on bottom of pan, 30 to 60 seconds. Reduce heat to low and gently but constantly fold eggs until clumped and just slightly wet, 30 to 60 seconds. Immediately transfer eggs to serving dish with pepper mixture, sprinkle with remaining 1 tablespoon parsley, and serve.