Apricot Pie

By efriend

Ingredients

• FOR THE CRUST
• 2 1/2 cups chilled flour, preferably King Arthur unbleached all-purpose
• 1/2 teaspoon salt
• 8 tablespoons chilled, high-fat unsalted butter, preferably Kerrygold, cut into tablespoon pieces
• 8 tablespoons rendered, chilled leaf lard (see headnote)
• 6 to 8 tablespoons ice water, plus more for the egg wash
• 1 large egg white
• Sugar, for sprinkling
• FOR THE FILLING
• 2 to 2 1/2 pounds (unpeeled) ripe apricots, pitted and cut into quarters or halves (depending on their size; see headnote)
• 1/3 to 1/2 cup sugar
• 1/3 teaspoon salt
• Pinch freshly grated nutmeg
• Freshly squeezed juice from 1/2 lemon (1/2 to 3/4 teaspoon)
• 1/3 cup flour
• 1/2 to 1 teaspoon quick-cooking (uncooked) tapioca (optional; see headnote)
• 1 1/2 teaspoons chilled unsalted butter, cut into small pieces

Preparation

Step 1

For the crust: Working quickly and efficiently, combine the chilled flour, salt, chilled butter and chilled lard in the large, chilled mixing bowl. Use your clean hands (fingers, at this point) to partially blend the mixture by breaking down some, but not all, of the large pieces of butter. The mixture should look somewhat crumbly, with pieces of different sizes (almonds, peas, cracker crumbs). Test by squeezing a little of it in the palm of one hand; it should not hold together. Some loose flour at this point is preferred. (If it does hold together, you may have to reserve that dough for another use and begin again. Really.)

Add the ice water in increments. First, sprinkle 3 tablespoons evenly over the mixture. Lightly work it in with your hands; the dough should start coming together. Repeat using 2 tablespoons, working it in. The dough should be showing large pieces of butter and some lard, and almost hold together. If needed, add the remaining tablespoons of water, one at a time, then use both hands to quickly form a ball of dough, turning it and pressing it into shape against the side of the bowl. The ball of dough should hold together but feel neither too firm nor too soft.

Cut it in half. Shape each half into a chubby disk no more than 3 or 4 inches across; turn the disk on its side and pat the sides into shape against the floured surface as needed. Wrap each disk in plastic wrap and refrigerate both halves for at least 30 minutes but no more than two days. Leave any leftover bits of flour/dough in the bowl; they'll become part of the filling.

For the filling: Combine the fruit, sugar (to taste), salt, nutmeg, lemon juice (to taste), flour and tapioca, if using, in the same large mixing bowl so the fruit is evenly coated, incorporating any bits of flour and dough left over. Taste and add sugar as needed.

When ready to bake, preheat the oven to 425 degrees. If desired, place a baking sheet on the lower rack to catch drips.

Flour a work surface and your rolling pin. Have a 9-inch, deep-dish pie plate at hand.

Unwrap one of the dough disks and place it on the floured surface; if your kitchen is warm, leave the other dough disk in the fridge. Sprinkle the top lightly with flour. Use your rolling pin to lightly, evenly tap the disk so that it starts to spread.

Work fairly quickly so the dough remains as cold as possible. Start at the side of the disk closest to you and roll once, away from you, and once toward you, then give the dough a quarter-turn. As you work, gather/press together any cracks that may form on the edges of the dough round. Turn the dough over (making sure it doesn't stick to the work surface). Repeat as needed, without overworking the dough, to form a round of dough that's approximately an inch larger than the pie plate. (If it seems too soft, gather it up, rewrap and refrigerate for 10 minutes.) Use a pastry brush to gently brush away any excess flour.

Fold one-half of the dough over the rolling pin, transferring it to the pie plate and unfurling the dough centered in the pie plate. Make sure the sides of the dough are pressed against the sides of the plate evenly all around and there's enough dough to cover the rim of the pie plate.

Distribute the fruit mixture evenly in the dough-lined pie plate. Dot the surface of the mixture with the pieces of butter.

Repeat with the process of rolling with the second disk of dough, working efficiently and brushing away excess flour. Use the rolling pin to transfer it, in the same fashion, to evenly cover the pie. Turn up the bottom-crust dough on the rim so that it catches/combines with the top-crust dough; use your favorite method of forming a pie crust edge (crimped between your knuckle and finger, for example). Take care to make sure the crust edges are "sealed" as tightly as possible.

Use a fork to whisk together the egg white and a little water to form an egg wash. Use a pastry brush to lightly and evenly paint the top crust and edges. Sprinkle lightly with sugar. Use a sharp knife to create slits so steam can escape.

Transfer to the middle rack of the oven; bake for 15 minutes, then reduce the heat to 375 degrees. Bake for about 35 minutes; the edges of the pie should be light-golden brown. You may see signs of bubbling filling and steam rising in the top-crust slits. Transfer to the stove top (off the heat); put an ear down to near the top of the pie and listen for several seconds. You should hear a "sizzle-whump" (the sound of the fruit filling settling), which will signal the pie is done. Let cool on a wire rack for 1 to 2 hours so the filling has a chance to set up.