Burgundy Pàté

By corlear

La Terrine Bourguignonne

When the ochre and red-brown silhouette the town of Joigny is reflected in the still waters of the river Yonne, it is picturesque, indeed. Joigny stands up well under closer inspection also. A short climb up its tortuous streets will lead to a most extraordinary brick-and-timber house whose ancient carved beams fan out to represent the Tree of Jesse. It is unique in France.

Should you arrive here near lunchtime, there is a modest little auberge on the riverbank with a good selection of local dishes. This is Monsieur Fronient’s Hôtel de l’Escargot, a rustic spot with honest cooking. Needless to say, snails—in season—are among his specialties. His cellar contains some particularly good Chablis. As an hors-d’oeuvre, he served a country pàté which deserves emulation. Here it is.

Ingredients

• 1 pound each of pork and veal
• a wild rabbit
• chopped shallots
• chopped parsley
• a bay leaf
• salt
• pepper
• 1 1/2 cups Chablis or other dry white wine
• 1/2 cup Madeira
• 2 truffles, chopped
• strips of bacon

Preparation

Step 1

Slice thinly 1 pound each of pork and veal. Bone a wild rabbit. Marinate the meats for 24 hours with chopped shallots and parsley, a bay leaf, salt, pepper, and 1 1/2 cups Chablis or other dry white wine.

Grind in a food chopper about 1/4 pound each of the pork, veal, and rabbit meat and season the mixture with salt and pepper, 1/2 cup Madeira, and 2 truffles, chopped.

Line an earthen páté dish with strips of bacon, letting them extend beyond the rim. Put in a layer of the chopped mixture, then half the marinated meats. Add another layer of the chopped mixture in which a row of whole or quartered truffles may be imbedded. Place the rest of the marinated meats on this and cover them with the extended bacon strips. Place the dish in a pan of water and bake in a moderate oven (350° F) for 1 1/2 hours.

Remove the páté from the oven and cool it under pressure by first laying a flat strip of wood or a small lid on the pàté and then a weight of about 4 pounds. Slice and serve cold.