Belgian Waffles (1964-1965 NY World's Fair)

By zircon50

In 1987, a Queens activist, the late, great David Oats, was determined that there be a third World’s Fair. The story behind why these plans fell apart could fill a small volume on its own – but this much is germane to the story at hand; I was to be the communications director for The Fair – and I still have the specially issued all-access passes that were presented to “Fair Officials” (I have tickets number 89 and 90)!

Now I told you all of that, so that I can tell you this.

It was at a private ‘89 World’s Fair “launch” party held in Flushing where I was among a privileged few to meet Maurice Vermersch and to experience, first hand, a treat he introduced to the world 23 years earlier when he called them “Bel-Gem” waffles.

Of course, up to that point they were Brussels Waffles, from a recipe of his wife’s. In the mid 1940s he started two restaurants in Belgium and made his World’s Fair debut at the Brussels fair in 1960. He did so well in Brussels that Maurice and four other families decided to head to New York City for the 1964 World’s Fair. Even though his name for them was “Bel-Gem,” they became known to the world as the Belgian Waffle. Maurice arranged to sell them at several venues throughout the fair, in addition to the Belgian Village. They were served with strawberries and whipped cream (or dusted with powdered sugar), and sold for a dollar.

What set these waffles a notch above the rest is that they were fluffier, higher and had a richer taste than ordinary waffles. The reason (and the secret) Vermersch shared with us that night, is that they have beaten egg white in them. Also, they are leavened with yeast rather than baking soda and powder. The yeast makes them lighter and fluffier and (because of the fermentation) they have a tangier taste – just what the beer-loving population of Brussels (and New York) enjoyed.

Here is what Maurice shared with us that night and now with serviceable “Belgian Waffle” Irons – the ones you flip during the baking process – being widely available for $80 or less; anyone can make them at home.

Ingredients

• 3 cups milk, divided
• 2 1/4 teaspoons (1 packet) active dry yeast
• 1 1/2 sticks unsalted butter
• 1/2 cup granulated sugar
• 1 1/2 teaspoons kosher salt
• 2 teaspoons vanilla extract
• 3 large eggs, yolks and whites separated
• 4 cups all purpose unbleached flour

Preparation

Step 1

Heat the milk in a small saucepan over low heat until warm to the touch but not steaming or bubbling.

Measure out 1/4 cup milk (into the proper measuring cup, of course) and sprinkle the yeast over the milk. Stir gently and let sit for 10 minutes. Melt the butter in a small saucepan while the yeast dissolves.

Whisk the melted butter, the dissolved yeast, sugar, salt, vanilla, and egg yolks together in a large bowl. Whisk in the remaining milk, then gently stir the flour into the batter with a wooden spoon. It will be slightly lumpy.

With a stand mixer or handheld electric mixer, whip the egg whites until soft peaks form when you pull the beaters out of the eggs. The egg whites will still be droopy; don’t overwhip!

Gently fold the egg whites into the batter.

Cover the bowl with plastic wrap or a damp towel and let the batter rise in a warm place for an hour.

Heat your waffle iron and cook your waffles according to your appliance’s specifications. For me, that’s 1/4 cup of batter on a piping-hot iron, cooked for about 5 minutes. Your mileage may vary. Serve immediately or freeze, wrapped in foil, to reheat in a toaster oven.