The Loftiest Soufflé

By LRay

The Loftiest Soufflé
Here's a soufflé that can stand up for itself. Michel Richard, of Citronelle in Washington, D.C., ignores tales about soufflés that collapse when the oven is opened (a myth). Instead, he focuses on what matters: a well-seasoned base that infuses the soufflé with flavor, and properly whipped whites that achieve optimum volume as they bake. Whip the whites until firm, but stop before they get too stiff, says Richard, or the soufflé will be grainy. And quell your jitters with his 21st-century trick: Add xanthan gum to the whites. It acts as a stabilizer­—resulting in the most dramatic soufflé we've made in a while.

4 servings

Recipe by Michel Richard

Photograph by Peden + Munk

April 2012

Ingredients

• 3 tablespoons unsalted butter plus more, room temperature, for ramekins
• 4 tablespoons finely grated Parmesan, divided
• 3 tablespoons all-purpose flour
• 1 cup cold whole milk
• 1 cup grated Gruyère, divided
• Pinch of freshly grated nutmeg
• Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper
• 4 large eggs, yolks and whites separated
• 1/4 teaspoon xanthan gum (optional)

Details

Servings 4
Adapted from bonappetit.com

Preparation

Step 1

Preparation

Preheat oven to 400°. Brush ramekins with butter and place on a foil-lined baking sheet; sprinkle ramekins with 2 Tbsp. Parmesan (total). Chill for 20 minutes or, covered, up to 1 day.

Melt 3 Tbsp. butter in a small saucepan over medium heat. Add flour; whisk constantly for 30 seconds. Gradually whisk in milk; increase heat and bring to a boil, whisking constantly. Add remaining 2 Tbsp. Parmesan and 1/2 cup Gruyère; stir until melted. Add nutmeg and season with salt and pepper. Transfer béchamel to a medium bowl and cover with plastic wrap; set aside.

Place egg whites in a large bowl. Stir in a pinch of salt and xanthan gum, if using. Using an electric mixer, beat egg whites until firm but not stiff, 3–4 minutes.

Stir egg yolks into béchamel. Gently stir in 1/4 of beaten egg whites to loosen béchamel base, then gently fold in remaining egg whites just to combine, taking care not to deflate.

Divide mixture among ramekins; sprinkle with 1/2 cup Gruyère;. Run your finger around inside lip of ramekins, cleaning edges. Bake until soufflés rise, centers are set, and cheese is golden brown, 18–22 minutes. Serve immediately.

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