Pumpkin Perfected (Pumpkin pie from scratch)

By Hklbrries

Baking pie from scratch may not seem like the best way to lighten the
Thanksgiving to-do list. According to chef Millicent Souris, however, that’s the best way to your best pumpkin pie and, really, she assures, it’s not as laborious as it sounds. Souris, author of “How to Build a Better Pie: Sweet and Savory Recipes for Flaky Crusts,Toppers, and the Things in Between” (Quarry Books, 2012), has offered some of her expert advice for the would-be baker along with a recipe that puts a new spin on the old classic.

What makes a “perfect” pumpkin pie?

Pie is an intersection of crust and filling and baking, so it's about all three being harmonious.

Where do most people go wrong with their pies?

People overwork their crust so it ends up being chewy, rather than
flaky and tender. They don’t use enough salt, in general, to flavor the
filling or the crust (salt informs flavor). Pies are generally under-baked
and people use criminal amounts of cinnamon and nutmeg.

What are your secrets for making your own crust?

The best crust, hands-down, is half unsalted butter and half leaf lard.
The butter adds that lovely richness that only butter owns (sorry, vegans)
and leaf lard, the holy grail of pastry fat offers a clean flavor and tender flake. Shortening was invented to mimic leaf lard, but Crisco is evil.

Certainly all lard or all butter work, or any variation of. Handle the
crust the least. Don't overwork it. Make it with your hands for the most
control. Be quick – every motion should have a purpose.

Do you prefer real pumpkin or canned?

I think canned pumpkin is where pumpkin pie gets gross. Using pumpkins is not a big deal. Buy one. Turn your oven on to 400 degrees. Cut the
pumpkin into big pieces and take the seeds out. Toss with some olive oil,
sprinkle with salt, add some aromatics like cinnamon stick, star anise,
nutmeg, a vanilla bean husk – these lightly inform the flavor.

Roasting food brings out lots of flavor. Roast the pumpkin until it is done (when a butter knife slides through easily). Scrape the pumpkin from the skin. Mash or put through a colander. We think all this stuff is hard, but it's not. You can prep the pumpkin days before you need it.

Do you have any suggestions for those looking to “spice up” their
pumpkin pies?

That's where the praline comes in [see recipe in sidebar]. I also think
nuanced seasoning, such as using whole spices, changes the game.
Nutmeg, cinnamon, mace, allspice – everything should be balanced. I like
to add fresh ginger to brighten it, along with lemon zest and juice. A
shot of whiskey never hurt anybody or anything.

How far in advance would you recommend baking your pumpkin pies before Thanksgiving?

Ideally the same day, but Thanksgiving is a tough one. Everything can be
prepped, the filling can be made ahead of time and the crust can be
pre-baked the night before. If you must, bake it the night before, and
just let it cool down and stay out at room temperature overnight. Room
temperature is the best way to serve food; you get the entire flavor. If you refrigerated it, warm it a bit to take the chill off.

© ctW Features

Ingredients

• _ _ _

Preparation

Step 1

_ _ _