Crisp French Meringue

By norsegal8

The classic proportions for crisp meringue are approximately double the weight of sugar to egg white. But there is a special reason I have called this recipe French meringue. It is because of a French pastry chef named Didier who came to visit me one day when I had just baked a batch of meringue shells. He hefted one with his thumb and three fingers and muttered in a low voice "C'est lourd." ("It's heavy.") I wavered between insult and curiosity and then decided that I might have something to learn. It turns out that Didier's grandfather used mostly superfine sugar for the meringue in his pastry shop and always put in a poignet ("fistful") of powdered sugar. Since Didier could not recall the size of the batches prepared in his grandfather's bakery, I spent several days in my kitchen experimenting with quantities ranging from 100% powdered sugar down to about 50% (which turned out to be the ideal). Didier was right. These are the lightest meringues I've ever experienced.
Crisp meringue shells provide delightful containers for ice cream and fresh fruit. Meringue discs make spectacular cake components when used to sandwich layers of génoise as in Star-Spangled Rhapsody Cake.

Ingredients

• 4 large egg whites
• 1/2 teaspoon cream of tartar
• 1/2 cup + 1 tablespoon superfine sugar
• 1 cup powdered sugar (lightly spooned into cup)

Preparation

Step 1

Line a heavy baking sheet with a nonstick liner or foil. If making discs, trace the shape onto foil or make a template to slip under the liner as a guide.

Preheat the oven to 200°F.

In a mixing bowl, beat the whites until frothy, add the cream of tartar, and beat at medium speed while gradually adding 2 tablespoons superfine sugar. When soft peaks form when the batter is raised slowly, gradually beat in the remaining superfine sugar and beat until very stiff and glossy.

Sift the powdered sugar over the meringue and fold in using a slotted skimmer or a large rubber spatula. Use at once to pipe or spread on the prepared baking sheet.

If your oven has a pilot light, the ideal way to dry the meringue is to bake it for 1 hour at 200°F, and then leave it overnight in the turned-off oven. Alternately, bake the meringue at 200°F for 2 to 2 1/2 hours, or until dry but not beginning to color. The most reliable way to test for doneness is to dig a small amount of meringue from the center with the tip of a sharp knife. If only slightly sticky it will continue to dry at room temperature.

VARIATIONS
Figure Piping Meringue: When piping figures figures such as swans for Blueberry Swan Lake or mushrooms for Cordon Rose Chocolate Christmas Log, a less fragile meringue is preferable. Replace the 4 ounces of powdered sugar with 4 additional ounces of superfine sugar (or 1 cup + 2 tablespoons). Beat all of the sugar into the meringue.

Cocoa Meringue: Whisk 2 tablespoons cocoa with the powdered sugar until uniformly blended.