No-Soak "Pot" Beans

By Foodiewife

Mexicans laugh at the notion of pre-soaking beans. "I was amazed to find out Americans soak their beans," Ms. Dooley said. These beans, delicious as is, are the foundation for Frijoles Rancheros and Frijoles Refritos, recipes below. Seasoning is simple: an onion, garlic cloves, then salting assertively when the beans are nearly done ("when they can absorb the seasoning."). Ms. Dooley sometimes uses a pig's trotter in place of vegetable oil as the fat that makes the beans "creamy." A strip or two of bacon or bacon drippings could be used instead.

Ingredients

• 1 pound package pinto beans
• 1 small onion
• 8 to 10 garlic cloves peeled
• 1 tablespoon canola oil or simmer with a pig's trotter
• Salt

Preparation

Step 1

Slow cooker: Rinse beans, place in slow cooker with onion, garlic and oil or pork. Add water to an inch above the beans. Cook on low overnight, or about 12 to 14 hours. The beans should be velvety but not falling apart, barely covered in a flavorful "beany" pot liquor. Add 2 teaspoons salt now. Remember the beans take a while to absorb the salt. Cooking times vary with individual cookers and how long the beans have been on the supermarket shelf. Fresher beans cook more quickly. If your beans are not fully tender, increase heat to high for a few hours.

Oven method: Place ingredients in a cast-iron or glazed-enamel Dutch oven with 6 cups of water and 1 teaspoon salt. Bring to a simmer on the stove, then cover tightly and put in a 350 degree oven for about 2 hours. At an hour and a half, check for tenderness. Now is the time to add another teaspoon of salt. This method comes from Russ Parsons of the Los Angeles Times via the excellent cookbook, "Rancho Gordo Heirloom Beans" by grower Steve Sando with Vanessa Barrington. You can order pintos and other heirloom beans: RanchoGordo.com (Bean gurus Mr. Sando and Mr. Parsons suggest if you have the luxury of time, soaking the beans, even for a couple of hours, makes them cook more evenly and faster.)

Makes 6 cups.