Blackberries

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They grow everywhere you don't want them, and the thorns are menacing, but the savor of a spoonful of homemade blackberry jelly on a hot biscuit is unsurpassed.

The main varieties - Himalaya, evergreen and Oregon creeping blackberry - are the forerunners of many of our cultivated berries. Of these three thorny rogue berries, the only one native to Oregon is the creeping blackberry. Country cooks refer to these as the "real blackberries with a flavor that's unbeatable."

The Himalaya berry is the most prevalent. The plants originally came from Europe and crossed the Plains with the pioneers around 1850. In the moderate climate west of the Cascade Range, it soon overran its cultivated boundaries.

In the wild, thorny canes grow up and over buildings. They steal great clumps of pasture land and create an impassable barrier along river banks. The broad leaves are partially shed in winter. In summer, the old canes flower and bear fruit, while new canes grow to flower and produce fruit the following summer.

The evergreen retains its narrow, toothed leaves through the winter. The red arched canes are adorned with hook-shaped thorns that guard the fruit well in summer.

Because of its tart flavor, the fruit from the evergreen is used mostly for jam and jelly.

This species was introduced in colonial gardens as an ornamental shrub. The leaves, or pulverized roots of the evergreen, were sometimes used as a natural remedy for diarrhea. This was a popular medicine during the Civil War.

Dr. Porcher, a Confederate Army surgeon, was an advocate of blackberries for medicinal purposes and good cheap wine.

Among the cultivated berries, Oregon's own marionberry is a cross between a Chehalem and the Ollalie berry. The Chehalem is a direct cross between the Himalaya and the Oregon creeping blackberry.

Other descendants of the wild blackberry include the thornless evergreen, the loganberry, boysenberry, and youngberry. They have all contributed to Oregon being named the berry capital of the world.

Most people who gather this bounty have a special place to pick, where the berries are larger and juicier than any other spot.

Look for plump, dust-free berries away from busy highways, where they might absorb toxins from car exhaust fumes.

The best berries are usually found close to a source of water, such as a lake, river or underground spring. Remember to ask permission before picking on private property and to wear jeans and a long-sleeved shirt to protect yourself from the vicious thorns.

Berries keep best stored in the refrigerator unmashed in a covered container. Softer, overripe berries do not contain as much pectin as firmer berries. Therefore, the not-so-ripe berries make better jam and jelly.

To prepare juice for jelly you need a large saucepan. For every quart of crushed berries add 1/2 cup of water. Poritons of not more than 2 quarts are easiest to work with. Allow crushed fruit to simmer 15 to 20 minutes. Stir frequently through to prevent sticking. Cool and strain juice through jelly bag or other suitable clean cloth.

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