Quail with Grapes

By

Cailles Morvandelles aux Raisins

Wild quail were once abundant in the Morvan, the heart of Burgundy, so it was natural to cook them with vine leaves, which add a bitter touch, and grapes, for sweetness. Nowadays most quail are farmed like chickens. Two quail per person are the usual serving. The same recipe can be made with young pigeons or, in North America, squab or rock cornish hens.

  • 4

Ingredients

  • For the stuffing:
  • 8 quail (including livers)
  • 16-20 fresh vine leaves OR a small can vine leaves, drained and rinsed with cold water
  • thin sheet barding fat, OR 8 thin slices mild bacon
  • 2 Tbsp oil
  • 60 g (4 Tbsp) butter
  • salt
  • pepper
  • 500 g (1 lb) green grapes (preferably seedless)
  • 2 Tbsp cognac
  • 125 ml (1 cup) broth
  • 8 rectangular croûtes, fried in butter
  • 3 slices white bread, crusts removed
  • 80 ml (1/3 cup) milk
  • 60 g (2 oz) fat bacon
  • 2 chicken livers
  • 8 the 8 quail livers
  • 1 Tbsp cognac
  • pinch of ground allspice
  • salt
  • pepper
  • trrussing stung

Preparation

Step 1

If nccessay, clean the quail, discard the heads and necks and reserve the livers and giblets.

Make the stuffing:
Soak the bread in the milk and squeeze it dry. If the bacon is very salty, blanch it. Work the bacon, chicken livers, quail livers and bread through the fine plate of a mincer/grinder or purée them in a food processor. Add the cognac, allspice and salt and pepper to taste.

Stuff the quail and wrap each bird in 2 vine leaves and then in a piece of barding fat; tie neatly with string. Set the oven at hot (200°C/400°F).

Heat the oil and butter in a large sauté pan or ovenproof casserole, add the quail and giblets and season with salt and pepper. Brown the birds on all sides for 8-10 minuses over a medium fire; then transfer them to the oven and roast for 15—20 minutes or until a skewer inserted into the stuffing for 30 seconds is warm to the touch when withdrawn.

Meanwhile, prepare the grape garnish:
Using a paperclip, remove any seeds from rhe grapes and, if the skins are thick, blanch and peel them.

When the quail are done, transfer them to a platter, discard the barding fat, vine leaves and strings, cover and keep warm. Discard the grease from the pan, add the cognac and broth and stir to dissolve the pan juices. Strain into a saucepan, add the grapes and heat over a low fire for 2-3 minutes; be careful not to overcook them. Taste the gravy for seasoning. Set the quail on the croûtes and spoon the grapes and pan juices over and around them. Serve at once.