Sauce Ragu for ravioli

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Here’s a variation on an Italian family favorite that I think would make my mother proud. Fresh-killed beef and veal is substituted for the beef and pork combo. The adaptation also includes balsamic vinegar, red wine, and the dried rind of Parmesan or Pecorino-Romano cheese. Never discard cheese rinds to the trash: When you reach the end of the hunk, and cannot grate any more, put the rinds in a tightly sealed plastic bag, and save them for this recipe. It adds a lot.

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  • 3

Ingredients

  • 1/4 cup olive oil (imported, high-quality preferred)
  • 6 fat garlic cloves, finely minced
  • 2 medium-sized onions, finely chopped
  • 2 carrots, peeled and very finely chopped
  • 2 pounds ground beef and veal (fresh-killed preferred, available at Dinora’s Market in Stapleton)
  • 1 (108-ounce) can of imported Italian peeled tomatoes in puree (available at Top Tomato for $4.99)
  • 1/4 cup balsamic vinegar
  • 1/4 cup good-quality dry red wine
  • 1/4 to 1/2 cup hardened, dried rind of Parmesan or Pecorino-Romano cheese, chopped (optional but recommended)
  • 1/4 cup fresh oregano leaves, stems removed, finely chopped
  • 3 fresh bay leaves, or a few more, to taste
  • Dried red pepper flakes, crushed, to taste (at least 1 teaspoon)
  • Kosher salt, to taste

Preparation

Step 1

Heat the olive oil in a large, heavy-bottomed pot or Dutch oven.

Add the garlic and onions, and cook on medium flame, stirring, until translucent. Do not brown. This step takes about 5 to 8 minutes.

Add the carrots, and cook a few minutes, until slightly softened. Add the meat, and stir with a wooden spoon until it browns. Add freshly ground black pepper to taste during this process.

As the meat turns from pink to brown, add the vinegar and wine, and stir.

When the meat is thoroughly cooked, add the tomatoes and juice — squeeze each tomato with your fingers, smashing it into smaller pieces. Add the cheese rinds. Stir, taste, add the bay leaves, and pepper and Kosher salt to taste. Simmer on a low to medium-low flame, stirring occasionally, for at least one hour.

Toward the end, add the fresh oregano, and stir to incorporate. Use the sauce immediately, cool down the rest, and freeze for future use. The sauce also keeps well in the refrigerator for one week.

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